Alexander The Great

Assignment - Communication for Arts and Design course - February 2016

“I’ve always been a rebel with a cause, which is to destroy the fashion industry,” and that is exactly what he did. Alexander McQueen took the fashion world by storm when he appeared on the British scene in the early 1990’s. Today, he is regarded as one of the most influential and controversial fashion designers of the twenty first century. His wayward attitude and extreme theatricality brought him to the forefront of the industry but his talent for precise tailoring and ability to create truly awe-inspiring garments is what earned him his esteem.

In March of 1969, Lee Alexander McQueen was born just outside of London, in Stratford, England. He was the youngest of six children born to Ronald and Joyce McQueen, a Scottish taxi driver and an elementary school teacher. At sixteen years old, Lee left high school to begin work as a tailor in London, vowing to one day attend the prestigious London arts school, Central Saint Martin’s. Although he had no high school diploma, no Bachelor’s Degree, and no money, he used his portfolio of sketches to gain admittance to the Master’s program of fashion design. It was through his 1992 fashion show, which marked his completion of the program, where his career in fashion truly began.

Highly regarded fashion figure, Isabella Blow, was in the show’s attendance that night and fell in love with the unique pieces McQueen sent down the runway. She later said she had never seen anything like them; the way that they moved and flowed around the models’ bodies was “simply captivating”. She famously purchased every item from this initial collection the very next day.

After years in the industry, Isabella knew talent when she saw it and she saw it in Lee McQueen. She helped him to fund his first studio in London and began marketing him to the fashion press as Alexander; “I call him Alexander because it reminds me of Alexander The Great,” she told press after one of McQueen’s early shows.

With Isabella’s backing, Alexander began putting on shows in desolate locations around London, fitting for the theme of his edgy early collections. He quickly became the talk of London’s fashion scene.

It was his 1995-96 winter runway show that really established McQueen as an artist and true rebel. During a time when minimalism dominated, Alexander McQueen was all about the shock factor, showing a slew of torn and tattered garments as well as several pairs of revealing pants he termed, “The Bumster”. He called this collection Highland Rape, which was shocking in and of itself. With so many people associating fashion with high status and glamour, Alexander McQueen used his early collections to express a much darker world.

Many of his early shows were equally as eerie and controversial as Highland Rape, which garnered him a great deal of press, much of which was not positive. He was quickly becoming known for his shows’ cinematic quality and his raw, edgy style. Much of his work drew inspiration from crows, many pieces including feathers and bird-like imagery. This is thought of as a common symbol of evil and darkness, a reoccurring theme among McQueen’s works.

Everything changed for Alexander when he was offered the coveted position of Chief Designer at conservative French fashion house, Givenchy, in October of 1996. Those familiar with the young designer’s work questioned how the bad boy of fashion would fit into such a highly traditional Parisian couture house.

His initial collections were met with very mixed reviews by the fashion community; many still did not believe him to be a highly skilled designer worthy of such an esteemed position. Although he adapted his ways to meet the needs of the conservative Parisian house, his highly theatrical and controversial runway shows were not an ideal fit for Givenchy and he ultimately left after four years with the house.

McQueen returned to London to work as Creative Director for his namesake brand, which had just been acquired by Gucci Group. He was given creative freedom of the line and runway shows, as long as he agreed to create clothing that would actually sell to consumers. His shows soon became more outrageous than ever, however he stuck to his word, as sales of Alexander McQueen skyrocketed. Along with women’s clothing, McQueen began a men’s ready-to-wear line, along with a line of accessories and eyewear pieces. He was finally garnering positive attention for the success of his clothing, rather than simple due to the extravagant nature of his runway shows.

Alexander McQueen was bigger than ever but those around him talked of the intense pressure he felt and his extreme sensitivity to negative reviews of his work. This frustration and anger became apparent as he expressed them through the designs in his shows each season.

In February of 2010, just shortly after his mother lost her battle with cancer, Lee Alexander McQueen ended his own life. The fashion community was devastated by the loss of such a brilliant and unique talent.

Following his death, in May of 2011, The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s esteemed Costume Institute honored McQueen in their annual summer exhibit. Called Savage Beauty, the exhibit showcased many prominent works from his collections and told the story of his rise to fashion royalty.

An amazing artist and a rebellious showman, Alexander McQueen certainly left his mark on the world of fashion.

Sources

McQueen and I. Direct by Louise Osmond. 2011. London, England: Blast Films, 2011.

DVD.

“Lee Alexander McQueen, Biography.” Alexander McQueen Limited. 2010.

http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/alexandermcqueen/biography/#id_article=137